

Another place where I was able to steep myself in a bit of historical colour was Rembrandt’s house - a classic Amsterdam narrow house. I hadn’t known that people used to sleep sitting up (fear that being horizontal might bring on an early death) and often in what are effectively cupboards! Rembrandt had several of these beds including one for the servant in the kitchen! This one below is in his reception room, where he entertained clients there to buy paintings (he was a dealer as well as an artist) - and this bed would probably have been used by visitors.

I loved seeing the pigments that Rembrandt would have used - mixed with linseed oil - all set out in his studio.


Another highlight was visiting the Oude Kirk which features several times in The Miniaturist. This is Amsterdam's oldest church and, as portrayed in the book, used to house the corpses of eminent citizens, buried under the floor, creating a terrible stench especially during an interment. The misericords in the Choir are also fascinating - some very gruesome and unchurchlike - particularly one featuring an old woman evicerating a naked young woman - literally pulling her intestines out through her arse! All in all a short but interesting break. Amsterdam is such an easy city to get around on foot or - if, as in my case, you're unlucky and the heavens open - on the excellent trams.
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